ATC's are quite the thing right now and gaining popularity all the time. ATC's or Artist Trading Cards are miniature works of art. You can use your chalks, inks, pencils, fibers, beads and embellishments to create your own little miniature works of art.
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Thoughtful and daily care is the best technique for keeping your beaded jewelry scratch free and brilliant looking.

First rule- Apply your make-up, perfumes, hair spray, lotions, etc. BEFORE you put your beaded jewelry on.
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Galvanized- This is a good practice wire.  It is dull silver in color and it is harder than most wires you might be used to.  Because of this you should get it in a thinner gauge.  Available in most hardware stores.
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The brass charms shown on our pages are raw brass. They do not have any kind of a finish on them, just the raw brass condition. You may want to wash the brass charms to eliminate any oil residue from the manufacturing process. To do this, just wash in a solution of dish detergent and warm water then rinse.
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I love blank books.  They can be so useful.  One of the ways I like to use them is for keeping notes from a class or classes I have taken.  Teachers often give you useful little tips in class.  They are especially useful to make notes if the class does not have a printed handout to refer to when you want to make the project again. 
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Glues have been around for thousands of years and originally were made from natural substances such as plant fibers and starches, animal bones, fish scales and animal hides. Some glues were even made from egg whites and cheese. Glues are very high tech now and it is important to understand how glue works and the most effective glue for the task at hand.
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ATC Artist's Trading Cards

ATC's are quite the thing right now and gaining popularity all the time. ATC's or Artist Trading Cards are miniature works of art. They are an inspiration to artists who work in all sorts of different mediums like rubber stampers, quilters, fabric artists, painters, calligraphers, collage artists, photographers just to name a few. You can use your chalks, inks, pencils, fibers, beads and embellishments to create your own little miniature works of art.

The History Behind ATC's (Artist Trading Cards)
ATC's -The History~ they got their start in Zurich, Switzerland about 1997 when M. Vanci Stirnemann exhibited approx. 1200 cards he had produced at his gallery/bookstore. They then spread to Calgary (Canada) through an artist named, Don Mabie (aka Chuck Stake), who had visited the Zurich exhibit. These 2 artists collaborated on an exhibition held in Calgary, Canada in 2000 with 80 artists from 10 different countries represented. It was called "The First International Biennial of Artist Trading Cards".

ATC's-The Rules~ Mainly just 3 rules-size restriction, contact information and thickness.

Size~ATC's must be 2 1/2" x 3 1/2". This is the standard size for trading cards (like the baseball, football trading cards, etc.) We make it easy by providing die cut plain cardstock in that size for you. However, you can create your ATC's over top of regular playing cards, baseball cards or other collector cards or use your own cardstock.

Contact Information ~Typically ATC's are traded so it is important to sign your ATC's on the back, date it and include any other contact information you want to give like an email address or snail mail address. If your ATC is part of a limited edition, you should number them (1/10, 2/10, etc.).

Thickness~ You cards can be 2 or 3 dimensional. Your design should be flat enough to fit into a standard trading-card sleeve.

Try an ATC triptych. Our Metaleeze faux metal hinges are a great way to hinge 3 cards together without any extra bulk or weight.

ATC's are changing all the time and many artists have used unusual materials to create their ATC's like polymer clay, acrylic, wood, metal and fabric. For the computer savvy artist, ATC's are being created using multilayered digital collage. Simple or technical, ATC's are for everyone!

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First rule- Apply your make-up, perfumes, hair spray, lotions, etc. BEFORE you put your beaded jewelry on.

Second rule - Don't wear beaded jewelry in the shower, swimming pool or during housecleaning chores. Besides the fact you would look like "Leave it to Beaver's" mom -harsh chemicals and cleaning agents can dull or scratch the surface of some beads.

Cleaning your Beaded Jewelry
Most cases, all you need is a clean soft cloth, like a chamois.

Silver beads can be cleaned up with a silver cloth. If this is not readily available, you can also use a non abrasive toothpaste. Rub it on with a damp cloth and then buff.

Gold findings have jewelry cleaning solutions widely available to clean them. Oily buildup can also be removed from gold with plain rubbing alcohol.

Pearl jewelry can be fragile. Wash with mild soap and water to remove perfumes, lotion and hair spray. If your pearl jewelry is splashed with red wine or other disaster, you may need to resort to a product specific for cleaning pearls.

Shells, Wood and other porous surfaces may require some special care. A soft paint brush or toothbrush is handy for cleaning dust as well as the dust air canisters like the ones used to clean computer keyboards found at most office supply stores. An inexpensive alternative for the compressed air is keeping a clean, empty dishwashing liquid container and squeeze it for a burst of air.

Most other gems- the GIA or Gemological Institute of America recommends cleaning most gems with warm water, a mild soap and a soft brush. Those pulsing water-dental cleaning appliances and a soft cloth can also be used. However, this does depend on what the beads are strung on. If you are cleaning your jewelry in or near the sink, be sure to place a rubber mat or cloth in the bottom of the sink over the drain to avoid loosing any small pieces or parts down the drain.

To keep your beaded jewelry clean between use, remove your jewelry before going to bed and place it in a closed storage container of some kind. Jewelers recommend storing each item in its own compartment or wrapping them in tissue when putting more than one item in a compartment.

Storing your Beaded Jewelry
Just as you store your finished beaded jewelry pieces in special boxes or compartments, your loose beads should be stored well also. If you are making beaded jewelry then your probably have a well stocked stash of loose beads and findings. Storing them well will keep your beads pristine and scratch free. There are quite a few companies offering purpose built bead storage.

Storing beads in appropriate containers allows similar beads to be stored together. It keeps the larger, chunky beads from breaking smaller, fragile beads and keeps the smaller beads from scratching the surface of the larger beads. It is always best, when possible, to store beads so that you can see what is in the container or have it well marked.

The GIA also says that light and heat can effect gemstones and pearls. Excessive heat and sudden temperature changes may also fracture gems. Your attic or basement may not be the best place to keep your beads based on this.

Some beads are fine to be stored together in quantity while others should be stored separately to avoid surface scratching.

I hope this article has helped with the care of your beads. It was adapted from an article in CNA Magazine, Dec. 2005.

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Galvanized- This is a good practice wire. It is dull silver in color and it is harder than most wires you might be used to. Because of this you should get it in a thinner gauge. Available in most hardware stores.

Copper - This is also available in most hardware stores. It is a good practice wire and looks good in projects using earthtone colors. Copper will age over time becoming darker and discolored, this is called patina. To keep you copper shiny bright, just polish it.

Coated Color Wire - To create some of the beautiful wire colors that are on the market, they are coated with enamel. Due to this coating you will want to use wire tools coated with plastic. Regular wire pliers will mar the coating on the wire. This type of wire is available in may craft stores.

Sterling Silver - Sterling means it is 92.5 pure silver. The other 7.5% is made up of alloys such as copper or zinc. This provides strength to the silver. As you know, sterling does tarnish- just a matter of how long it will take for this process (oxidation) to occur. If you are not planning on using your sterlig silver jewelry for a long period of time, you might consider keeping it in a container such as zip lock baggy, or a sealed container to prevent the air getting to it and help to slow down the oxidation process. Cleaning silver is easy, you can use polishing kits, magnetic polisher or tumbler or an ionic cleaner.

Dead Soft SS Wire is extremely pliable and can easily be bent into countless shapes but it does not hold its shape in stress situations such as clasps.

Full Hard SS Wire will hold its shape for wire-wrapping. Its tempered nature holds intricate designs well.
Hard SS Wire although malleable, it will maintain an intricate shape under stress. It can be used for almost all of your bead prjects.

Gold-Filled - Don't be confused or misled, this is not pure gold. Although it has many layers of gold, it is not pure gold. The greatest benefit to this wire is that if cared for properly, it lasts a very long time. It is a better quality than gold plated wire. Plated gold only has one layer of gold. It is a wonderful cost effective alternative to real gold wire.

Fine Silver - This is made up of 99.9% pure silver. It is softer than sterling silver and since it has fewer alloys, it does not tarnish as quickly. Although I have never worked with it, I hear it is very nice to work with.

Gold - If you've got the money and are daring enough - you just might want to try this. It is offered in various karat weights and different colors.

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I love blank books
I love blank books.

They can be so useful. One of the ways I like to use them is for keeping notes from a class or classes I have taken. Teachers often give you useful little tips in class. They are especially useful to make notes if the class does not have a printed handout to refer to when you want to make the project again.

Since I like to bead and there are so many types of beads out there, I decorated a similar type book to the large blank book shown below with beads on the outside and on the inside I made notes on different kinds of seads beads, size information, wire guages and so on.

I also keep a little book handy in my purse when I think I might be going book shopping so that I don't duplicate one of my craft books at home. If you have a lot of different Pearl X colors or somethnig like sparkling H2O's, you can make a list of the colors so they are not duplicated. Use it to keep a list of ink pads and their refills, alcohol inks, etc. This is invaluable info when you attend a convention! these blank books have a nice sturdy book board cover to them so you could make a mini scrapbook or brag book for all you moms and grandmothers out there that is easy to carry with you.

What will you use your blank book for?

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Brass Charms

The brass charms shown on our pages are raw brass. They do not have any kind of a finish on them, just the raw brass condition. You may want to wash the brass charms to eliminate any oil residue from the manufacturing process. To do this, just wash in a solution of dish detergent and warm water then rinse. You can scrub them with an old toothbrush for those tight spots. To prevent water spots, dry the charms immediately. If you receive a brass charm item that has a spot or dull look to it, they can be cleaned with any brand of brass polish. After using the polish, wash the charm with dish detergent and water, rinse and dry immediately.

Antiquing your Brass Charms
You can give your brass charms a whole new look by antiquing them with a dark brown or black acrylic craft paint. To do this, coat the entire piece with paint and then immediately wipe off the excess with a soft rag (old T-shirt) or paper towel leaving the paint in the crevices. If you desire a darker look, re-antique it again. If you got it too dark, simply scrub the paint off with a toothbrush and start over. For a "pickled" look, try white acrylic craft paint. Experiment with your own favorite color of acrylic craft paint.

Painting your Brass Charms
Charms may be painted with acrylic or metallic acrylic craft paints after antiquing. The paint will stick better if you apply one coat of spray lacquer on the charms after antiquing them.

You will make your charms go the distance by trying different looks on them to match the project you are working on.

Sealing your Brass Charms
If you choose to antique or paint your charms, they must be sealed to prevent tarnishing. You can use a spray or brush on sealer, water based varnish or polyurethane or spray lacquer. Most of these can easily be found at a hardware store or check your local Wal-mart. Your choice to select a glossy or a satin finish. Try spraying your charms by putting them on a piece of paper in a low sided box. Change the newspaper between each spraying.

Brass charms come in a large variety of sizes, shapes and textures. They also come in a wide variety of prices. Brass charms can add texture, depth, color to your art project. With the techniques listed above, you can extend your charm selections all the more. You can also try Staz-On Ink Pads, if you have them, to add color to your charms

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All You Need to Know About Glue

Glues have been around for thousands of years and originally were made from natural substances such as plant fibers and starches, animal bones, fish scales and animal hides. Some glues were even made from egg whites and cheese. Glues are very high tech now and it is important to understand how glue works and the most effective glue for the task at hand. No one glue works for every project but some glues will work well for a variety of jobs. So if you have many different containers and types of glue, you are probably off to a good start.

-Surface-
Always choose a glue appropriate for the surfaces you will be adhering.

• Non Porous Surface ~These are surfaces such as glass, metal, ceramics, plastic, and even glossy paper. These surfaces are typically shiny and slick and do not absorb moisture.
• Semi-Porous~ These include coated paper, rubber, fun foams, treated wood. These surfaces absorb some moisture but do so slowly and unevenly.
• Porous~ Most papers, plaster, cardboard, unsized fabrics, untreated wood. They absorb moisture quickly and evenly. These qualities make it easy for glue to adhere.

Five General Guidelines to Consider before Gluing:

1. Consider the materials you are gluing together, the end use of the project and the appearance of the product.

1. Will glue create a good bond?
2. What type of surface is it?
3. Does surface need advance preparation? Every surface should be clean, dry and free of dirt and oil before you attempt to glue it together.
4. Will glue need to be flexible on the finished project?
5. Does glue dry hard or soft?
6. Will the final project be washable, water resistant or dry cleanable?
7. Does glue dry clear, white or colored?
8. Is the glue permanent giving long term durability and permanence,
9. Fast or slow drying glue?

2. Decide which is the easiest glue to use and apply.

3. What kind of cleanup is necessary after the glue is applied?

4. Remember important precautions for glue use.

1. Is it toxic, non-toxic, flammable?
2. Do you need to work in well ventilated area?

5. Consider the price of the glue in relationship to the project.

1. Do you need an expensive high tech glue when a less expensive brand will do an equally sufficient job?
   

Types of Glue
Water Based Glues~ Most white glues fall into this category such as Elmer's School glue. Most white glues are non-toxic and wash out with soap and water before they are hardened. They are limited in strength so should not be used for heavy projects. Formulas for these types of glues vary. Many of the white glues have a high water content and for this reason do not dry quickly and will wrinkle papers. They also do not form as strong a bond as some other glues. The less liquid or runny that a white glue is makes it dry faster. Many white glues will dry clear but some dry clearer than others and you can make your own experiment on that. If you have a thick glue-you will ruin the fast drying properties of it if you thin it with water. It is also a good idea not to let your glues freeze. Some may survive a freeze-thaw cycle so read the label. If you have a white glue that looks a little like cottage cheese, it has probably been frozen at some point and will not be good to use. White glues should be used mainly for bonding porous and semi-porous surfaces. The label may say it will work for ceramics, metal and glass but they may not be the wisest choice for that project. There are other glues on the market for those surfaces that will be better and stronger to bond those types of surfaces. If it is an important project, best thing to do is a test first.

Solvent Based Glues~ These are the strongest glues. They have a noticeable odor, they are flammable and permanent. Many come in two-part mixing process. They can also be used for both indoor and outdoor applications.

Acrylic Based Glues ~These contain acrylic polymers, dry clear, rarely affected by heat or humidity and pretty flexible. They should not be used on projects for outdoor use. Some of these may also be a two-part mix process.

Glue Tips, Hints, Things to Remember

1. Read manufacturer's instructions.
2. Test glue on scrap materials to make sure glue works on surface.
3. Work in well ventilated area when working with solvent based glues.
4. Protect your skin if you think you may be sensitive to any of the glue ingredients. Wear plastic gloves if necessary.
5. Cover your work surface. Newspaper isn't the best because gluecan easily soak thru it. Try wax paper, freezer wrap, aluminum foil, old plastic tablecloth or shower curtain.
6. Always make sure your surface is clean, dry and free from dust and oil.
7. Never Over Glue! If too much glue is used it will ooze out, take longer to dryand will actually not hold as well because the surface is over saturated.
8. Be prepared to use more than 1 type of glue on a project. Multiple surfaces will require multiple glues.
9. Throw out the old glue. Most glues have a definite shelf life. Glue that has been sitting around for awhile will loose its potency and will cause your project to fall apart.
10. It helps to select the appropriate glue applicator with the type of surface- Brushes, craft sticks, metal or plastic spatulas, toothpicks or wooden skewers to name a few. Oh, and don't forget-your fingers (only on non-toxic).
11. Store glues properly-typically away from extreme temperatures and direct sunlight.
12. Remember to give your glue a chance to dry-don't be too impatient. You will gain a better result if you leave it dry for the appropriate amount of time.

I hope this little article has been of value to you.

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